One night, while I was making aar chart, I decided that I'd attempt to make tinted gss during the daytime for a while, to eventually make sor filters for the telescope. I had initially thought I could just make a sirong filter to use, but that is actually quite a bit harder than making multiple panes of more lightly tinted gss, and then just stag the filters. The main issue with making a single, very dark piece of gss is uniformity.

  Uniformity will be a problem for any tinted gss I make, however, fht to moderately tinted gss, I look at the entire pahat we pour a the most uniform se to make the filter. If the gss is too dark from the start, I 't make those observations easily. As an added bonus, I won't have to worry about any weird iions happening in the gss as a result of doping it too much with different oxides.

  We have access to a few metals, which it shouldn't be too difficult to make some oxides of, and then sprio the gss mix to tint it with a particur color. We'll have to wait to see what colors we get until after making them though. If I wanted a single filter, I'd probably o mix multiple oxides into the one gss mix, but with multiple filters, I just stick to oype per filter. That also should offer flexibility down the road if, for instance, I wao look through a particur color spectrum through the telescope. Blue and red would be ideal filter colors to have in that regard, given the prevalence of stars in those colors in my home universe.

  I took eleven days tinkering with gss additives, and while I didn't get perfect results, I'm tent with what I did get. Iron oxide gave me a green color, which was remi of beer bottles oh, copper oxide gave me a nice blue, and both lead and zinc didn't seem to affect uch, though they did affect the gss slightly in other ways. Food measure, I also tried adding powdered pyrite made from solid pyrite crystals, which gave me a yellow-brown color.

  I had been hoping that I could find a good red css to use as a filter as well, but with just blue and yellow-brown, I could filter out a signifit amount of the light. Enough, in fact, that we could safely look at the suns. W up to that point was quite tricky, however. After I made a few of those filters, I would yer them in front of the telescope, and then aim it at one of the suns, with a paper behind the eye piece.

  Two, three, and four yers weren't enough. With two yers, I still had to turelescope away quickly, because the eye piece got too hot to toubsp; At four yers, the paper still heated very quickly. At five yers, it seemed cool enough, but food measure, I went up to six before attempting to look through.

  I had aimed it at the brighter of our suns, and what I saw was actually quite b all things sidered. I saw a fairly uniform circle, with a few dark spots on it. I turhe telescope to the sed sun, and had to remove two of the six filters to see anything. It's siderably darker than the rger sun, but without the filters, that would be hard to determine. This sun was quite a bit more b as well. There were no visible spots or anything, just a dim circle.

  I kept up observations for 26 days, periodically cheg both suns during the day, and making star charts at night. The smaller sun had no noticeable differen it's appearanbsp; The rger one, however, is seemingly tidally locked to the smaller one. The total orbital period for the two stars around each other is about 13 days, and the sunspots on the rger star aloint the same dire retive to the smaller sun.

  Oh day of observations, we experienced another sor eclipse, signaling the month of the year. As I watched it happening, something clicked mentally, and I realized why the seasons are what they are, and why each year perfectly lines up with the lunar eclipses. The sor-lunar eclipses and sor-sor eclipses are probably reguting temperatures.

  As the two suns orbit each other, they eclipse each other occasionally, resulting in less sor radiation reag our p. We have thirteen months, and it takes thirteen days for the two suns to plete an orbit around each other. Our moon eclipses both suns for about six hours every thirty days. Sihirteen is a prime number, and thirty isn't a multiple of thirteen, it means that each of our lunar-sor eclipses occurs during a different time during the sor-sor eclipse cycle.

  Sometimes, our lunar eclipses occur while both suns are visible, and other times it overps with one of the sor-sor eclipses. Any time we get a lunar-sor eclipse, we get no light from our two suns for those hours, cooling the p. If that lines up with a sor-sor eclipse, then we lose out oively less heating than we would otherwise.

  If my hypothesis is right, then I suspect that during our winter months, our eclipses will occur only during non sor-sor eclipses, giving us the lowest amount of sor radiation in the year. With winter ing soon, this should be easy enough to chebsp; I asked around with the dwarves and humans if they'd ever heard of a thermometer, which they hadn't. Which means I know what I'm going to start w o. We do have some alcohol that has been brewed in the past few years using dwarven crops, which I should be able to trate enough to make a thermometer. With that, we start making temperature measurements, and actually get some hard data on ambient temperature.

  Thanks to thermal hands, I was actually able to make a thermometer in only 12 days. After tratihanol to a reasonable level, I then added some dye to make the fluid more visible. I made multiple different prototype sealed bulb thermometers, then with thermal hands, it was easy for me to manipute the temperature of the bulb to have the ethanol move up and down the capilry portion to test which design worked best for what I wanted.

  Ultimately, I found that I o cool the bulb portion first before sealing and adding the capilry tube, otherwise the fluid wouldn't give any readings at ambient temperature. Ultimately, this thermometer is quite rge. The reason being that I o be able to tuher thermometers to this oo keep sistent readings down the road.

  Without a mae to produce duplicates, every thermometer we make will have to be belled with temperature after being mostly pleted. I'll basically have to bel it against the big thermometer at three different temperatures, and thehose to mark out all the other temperature points on each thermometer.

  For now though, we only he ohermometer. Oh, I'm sure many people would be upset that I'm going with an approximately Fahre scale, but I already think in terms of Fahre, and I don't have a way to measure the boiling point of water to mark sihe ethanol would boil before that. Instead, I'm using the freezing point of o water as 0, and a fortable air temperature as 70. Sihis is imprecise anyway, I think it's fine. I only really want to use this for retive measurements of temperature. I've hired three goblins to help me with my endeavor.

  We'll be measuring temperature at four points in the day, sunrise, su, midday, and midnight. The midnight time is going to be more imprecise, given the ck of references and clocks, but again, I'm really only measuriive data here. I'll also have them mark down when sor-sor eclipses begin, and they'll make more temperature measurements during those, and the same goes for lunar-sor eclipses. Ultimately, each will also be marked dowive to what day they were measured.

  In a few years time, I review all the data, a, and make some graphs to see if there are any trends that I haven't noticed. With that pnned out, I only have a few more nights until I'll sider myself doh the star charts I'd po make. After that, I don't know what I pn to work on. I should probably che the mine again with teise, to see if we're near anything ii.